Cosmetic Lighting and Portrait Photography

Overvieweye sockets appear shallower.
How many times have you heard someone sayConversely, shallow eye sockets, or bulging eyes can
"that's a terrible photograph of me", or even said itbe altered by raising the main light source, and
yourself?moving it further away from the subject/camera axis
The point of cosmetic light is avoid unflattering(i.e. more to the side). This needs to be done in
lighting and viewpoints.conjunction with making the fill-in light a little brighter,
Modelling and texture is a consequence of lighting.and the overall effect will be a flattening of the
Moving the angle of illumination closer to the subjectplanes of the face.
camera axis generally flattens modelling and reducesLarge noses
texture, while increasing the angle increases both.Large noses can be de-emphasized by moving the
Similarly, more directional (intense) lighting producesmain light source closer to the subject/camera axis.
harder shadows, while less directional (soft) lightingThis will cast a nose shadow on the upper lip, rather
diminishes them.than the cheek, so making the nose look less large.
The following tips describe how to deal with commonAttractive hair or baldness
problems by making simple changes. ExperimentationHair can be emphasized by raising the main light and
is required to achieve the best results.the camera view point. The subject will need to be
Making faces wider or narrowerrepositioned slightly, so that they look up to the
Very few people have perfectly symmetrical faces.camera. With a bald subject, this is will have the
For example, one side may be slightly wider or flatteropposite effect and further emphasize their baldness.
than the other. If the subject is illuminated so thatChins
the main light falls on the side that is wider, and theIf the subject has a weak chin, get them to tilt their
other side is kept in shadow, the viewer's imaginationhead back a little, which will make their chin stick out.
will lead them to think that the shaded side is equalIf they have a strong jaw, have the subject tilt their
to the lit side. The overall impression will be that thehead forward reduce its prominence.
face is wider than it really is. Conversely, if theSoft focus
narrower side of the face is illuminated, the viewerSoft focus reduces and skin blemishes. Soft focus
will think that the face is narrower than it really is.can be achieved by using the largest lens aperture
This illusion can be varied by changing the angle ofpossible (however the effect will largely be
lighting, and the maximum effect comes from verydetermined by the capabilities of your camera lens).
dark shadows, since this leaves more to the viewer'sBriefly, larger apertures have a smaller depth of
imagination.focus, so any feature beyond the focal point will be
Altering eye socketsvery slightly blurred. You should always focus on the
If the subject has deep eye sockets, lowering theeyes, but this becomes doubly important when
main light will provide more illumination, and make theemploying any form of soft focus.