Cosmetic Lighting in Portrait Photography

Most people, and especially women, will tell you theyimagination.
have a "good" side.Altering eye sockets
Simple cosmetic lighting relies on alterations to theIf the subject has deep eye sockets, lowering the
angles of illumination, described in "the basic principlesmain light will provide more illumination, and make the
of lighting", and " available light portraiture", to flattereye sockets appear shallower.
the subject and make use of their "good side".Conversely, shallow eye sockets, or bulging eyes can
I have aimed to keep this article simple, and avoidbe altered by raising the main light source, and
reference to techniques that require more specializedmoving it further away from the subject/camera axis
lighting equipment.(i.e. more to the side). This needs to be done in
Overviewconjunction with making the fill-in light a little brighter,
How many times have you heard someone sayand the overall effect will be a flattening of the
"that's a terrible photograph of me", or even said itplanes of the face.
yourself?Large noses
The point of cosmetic light is avoid unflatteringLarge noses can be de-emphasized by moving the
lighting and viewpoints.main light source closer to the subject/camera axis.
Modelling and texture is a consequence of lighting.This will cast a nose shadow on the upper lip, rather
Moving the angle of illumination closer to the subjectthan the cheek, so making the nose look less large.
camera axis generally flattens modelling and reducesAttractive hair or baldness
texture, while increasing the angle increases both.Hair can be emphasized by raising the main light and
Similarly, more directional (intense) lighting producesthe camera view point. The subject will need to be
harder shadows, while less directional (soft) lightingrepositioned slightly, so that they look up to the
diminishes them.camera. With a bald subject, this is will have the
The following tips describe how to deal with commonopposite effect and further emphasize their baldness.
problems by making simple changes. ExperimentationChins
is required to achieve the best results.If the subject has a weak chin, get them to tilt their
Making faces wider or narrowerhead back a little, which will make their chin stick out.
Very few people have perfectly symmetrical faces.If they have a strong jaw, have the subject tilt their
For example, one side may be slightly wider or flatterhead forward reduce its prominence.
than the other. If the subject is illuminated so thatSoft focus
the main light falls on the side that is wider, and theSoft focus reduces and skin blemishes. Soft focus
other side is kept in shadow, the viewer's imaginationcan be achieved by using the largest lens aperture
will lead them to think that the shaded side is equalpossible (however the effect will largely be
to the lit side. The overall impression will be that thedetermined by the capabilities of your camera lens).
face is wider than it really is. Conversely, if theBriefly, larger apertures have a smaller depth of
narrower side of the face is illuminated, the viewerfocus, so any feature beyond the focal point will be
will think that the face is narrower than it really is.very slightly blurred. You should always focus on the
This illusion can be varied by changing the angle ofeyes, but this becomes doubly important when
lighting, and the maximum effect comes from veryemploying any form of soft focus.
dark shadows, since this leaves more to the viewer's