Photographing Pets

LightingCorrect angle of view
Correctly lighting an animal requires a slightly differentThe height from which the photograph is shot is very
approach to lighting a human subject; fur does notimportant. Too often I see aerial shots of small dogs
reflect light in the same way as skin. The exactand cats photographed by their towering 6-foot
position of the main light source and level of modellingowner. The simple rule is - try to get the camera on
is subordinate to the need to capture texture (e.g.the same level as the subject.
their noses do not cast shadows on their faces). TheWith cats and smaller dogs, it can be easier to place
main light source still needs to fall from above and tothem on a table or any other suitable item of
one side, but the exact angle of the light is lessfurniture or support. Sometimes you have to get
critical, and stronger and more direct illumination candown on the floor, but many animals will think you
and should be used.are playing a game.
I recommend the use of flash light combined withEncouraging co-operation
good daylight to make fur shine. Cats and dogs doThe hardest part of pet portrait photography is
not appear to be aware of flash light, nor worried bygetting the subject's co-operation.
it. There are however, two potential problems toThe pet owner should know the best way to
avoid: "red-eye" and "black halo".accomplish this; the place in which their pet is most
Red-eye is caused by the reflection of light from thelikely to feel comfortable, whether they are more
retina of the eye. This can be minimised by using anamenable before or after feeding/exercise, what
off-camera flash (if you have one), positioned slightlycommands or noises they will respond to.
above, below, and/or to one side of the axis of theMy personal tips are:-
camera. Most modern cameras with built-in flash units1. If possible, work in the place and at a time that
have a red-eye reduction mode. This uses a series ofbest suits the pet.
pre-exposure flashes to close the subject's iris. The2. Leave the commands/noises to one person,
use of flash as a fill-in with bright daylight alsopreferably the photographer. There is nothing worse
minimises red-eye.than instructions coming from all around the animal.
Black-halo is the hard shadow cast by the use of3. Don't dangle food/toys in front of the subject -
flash in low light conditions. The way to avoid this isthey will inevitably move to get them.
to ensure that the flash isn't the main (brightest) light4. One way of getting pets to stay still for a few
source.seconds is to rub something tasty on their jaws.
Exposure and focus (dark subjects)They will almost certainly stop to lick their lips.
Modern cameras are fully automatic in this respect,5. Avoid placing the animal on grass, which will cover
but most do not perform well when the subject isand hide their paws.
something like a black dog. I use an expensive Leica,Posing the subject
but it still underexposes, and hunts for a focus lockIf your dog has been trained to sit or stand, that can
when photographing my (black) dogs.be very helpful, but mostly, you will need to be very
If your camera has a spot metering facility, use it. Ifpatient and wait for the required pose to happen.
you have a manual override capability, tryWith male dogs, watch-out for "things popping out",
"bracketing" (i.e. repeat each shot and deliberatelyand reposition if it does.
over expose). If you have control over shutterDon't photograph cats lying down. They often tuck
speeds, use a fast setting. Similarly, if your cameratheir legs under their bodies, which results in the
allows manual focusing, try doing this yourself.overall body shape becoming little more than a fury
Underexposure can be corrected using Photoshopblob.
(etc), provided that the lighting was more or lessBe objective; it's too easy to see nothing more than
right (i.e. under exposure due to backlighting cannotthe pet you love, and overlook the fact that the
be corrected).shot you are about to take is dull.
Poor focus cannot be corrected retrospectively.